Strawberry trees have populated the Serra do Mendro since time immemorial. In the breezy high altitudes, they find the perfect balance, next to other shrubs, in the cork oak forest. The small red, orange and yellow fruits, hanging from thin stems, swaying in the cool Atlantic winds at the end of each afternoon, decorate the earth at Christmas time, in an almost poetic rusticity. The generously proportioned shrubs reveal their resilience, year after year. They offer the richness of a unique fruit, rich in aromas and flavours, macerated in the distillery. The steam double distillation process originates a fine and elegant arbutus brandy, with a clear, transparent, almost crystalline colour. It should be sipped slowly, accompanied by a good conversation.
Strawberry trees have populated the Serra do Mendro since time immemorial. In the breezy high altitudes, they find the perfect balance, next to other shrubs, in the cork oak forest. The small red, orange and yellow fruits, hanging from thin stems, swaying in the cool Atlantic winds at the end of each afternoon, decorate the earth at Christmas time, in an almost poetic rusticity. The generously proportioned shrubs reveal their resilience, year after year. They offer the richness of a unique fruit, rich in aromas and flavours, macerated in the distillery. The steam double distillation process originates a fine and elegant arbutus brandy, with a clear, transparent, almost crystalline colour. It should be sipped slowly, accompanied by a good conversation.
When we smell the wet schist soil, between October and November, at the Herdade Aldeia de Cima estate this inspires us to harvest red fruits, in particular arbutus berries from the strawberry tree (arbutus unedo), which bring rich colours to the autumnal slopes of the Serra do Mendro.
The strawberry tree’s wild and edible fruits result from maturation of the flowers from the previous year and are hand-picked. The fruit has an unusual contrasted texture: beneath the granular peel there is smooth pulp, which has an intense and fruity flavour.
The round trees found on the slopes of the cork oak forest have vibrant colours – when the fruit is ripe it varies between strong yellow and intense red – and seem to herald Christmas, making the strawberry tree one of the most striking Portuguese forest spaces.
The fruits harvested to make arbutus brandy come from the strawberry trees that grow wild in the Herdade Aldeia de Cima estate and the lands of the Serra do Mendro. The level of shade from the trees guides the right moment to harvest the fruits. Analysis of the level of firmness and a Brix reading of 26-28º confirm the optimal moment to hand pick the berries. The berry ripens slowly, and it is necessary to pick the fruit from the tree on three or four different moments in time, in order to obtain the necessary amount for production.
The strawberry tree fruit is very delicate. It is usually picked by women, who immediately make a selection between two baskets: one for yellow and yellow-orange fruits, that are less ripe and suitable for the production of brandy; and another for the riper, red fruits, that can be eaten fresh or used for the preparation of jam and jelly.
Based on a geological study which analysed the profiles of the most suitable soils, a total of 25 hectares were identified that have good conditions for planting strawberry trees in different parts of the Herdade Aldeia De Cima estate.
We then chose the most robust and promising plants from the nursery in order to micro propagate them in vases and subsequently plant them.
There are currently five hectares of strawberry tree plantations in the area of the Alfaiates vineyard, a shrubland, which enriches the enclave between the vineyard and the cork oak forest in the Serra do Mendro, fostering biodiversity and the establishment of ancillary species from different crops.
Due to the delicacy of the strawberry tree fruit, managing the right period of time between harvesting and fermentation to the distillation stage is crucial to maintain freshness and achieve the perfect balance between the elegance and identity of the arbutus brandy.
Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature for three weeks, where the fruit on the surface hydrates the entire volume, through manual mixing. After the entire mass has fermented, the master distiller places it in the boiler for steam distillation, where the technique is perfected for three hours, in a discontinuous cycle that separates the brandy into three different vats, one for each fraction: the head (the first 20% of the distillate), heart ( 60% of the distillate) and tail (last 20% of the distillate). Finally, the brandy distilled from the heart undergoes a second distillation, in order to minimise the presence of aggressive compounds, making the brandy tastier, more transparent and harmonious.
A good distillate must be balanced, harmonious and pleasant to the nose and palate.
Arbutus brandy is part of a centuries-old tradition in southern Portugal and has been consumed over generations as an excellent digestive. After the meal, it should be served pure and at room temperature, in order to appreciate its aromatic freshness.
Arbutus brandy has a clear, transparent colour, almost crystalline. The aroma is very fine and slightly fruity. Depending on theharvest conditions, it can present floral notes of dried daisies, white plum and green peach, in colder years and in warmer years, it can present notes of wild fruits, such as red currants and molasses. On the palate, it demonstrates an incredible purity and clarity, with a dry touch and a good balance of soft alcohol, with a floral and fruity finish in the nose.
To appreciate it properly, gently place your nose close to the glass, keeping a distance of ten centimetres to smell the aroma and gradually taste the arbutus brandy. Adding 1-2 drops of water (with a dropper) can help to open up the flavours and aromas. As a rule, 3cl are served. Like any good distillate, it should be slowly sipped, accompanied by good conversation.